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Eastern Ice - Calculated Guesswork

I've spent the last week trying to predict, find and climb as much ice as possible. My mind was first opened up to the idea that there could be a fair amount of ice around when Mark and myself went into Dreish's Winter Corrie last Saturday. Although the upper section was incomplete, the classic 'Diagonal gully' had formed it's beautiful sprawling first pitch. We elected to go higher into the mists and have a look at 'The Waterfall'. We were rewarded with a cracking pitch of around III.

The indications were that if it had been consistently cold enough to form water ice in Glen Clova then other haunts in the east that tend to hold the cold better could be spectacular. I headed up to Aviemore to have a look at Lurcher's with Dave G on Tuesday and we found a fair bit of ice around choosing to climb 'North gully' which was in great condition. We also had the wind at our backs which made the harsh westerlies far less debilitating.
The snowfall in Avi…

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